I wake up to the sounds of roosters and donkeys and the swelter of extreme heat. Can the day really begin this early I ask myself? A lukewarm bucket bath washes away the sweat and sand momentarily. I leave my house and start towards the center of town. It's a windy day with a little bit of dust in the air — not what I would call a beautiful day, but I've seen worse. On my way to town I meet Zeinabou and Fatimatu and then Miriam and Khatu. I see Mohamed, Sidi and Ahmed as well as Tutu and Ishe. How are you? Your family? Health? Work? How is your morning? Anything new? I am fine. All is good. Thank you, thank you.
It's time for tea. Round one. Round two. Round three. Why aren't I married? Where is my husband? Don't I want to marry a man from Chinguitti? How about the camel herder? Or the brother? Maybe the butcher? When I leave, will I ever come back? Do I know Mohamed the Prophet? Do I pray? Muhlafas are good, why don't you wear a muhlafa?
The sun is rising, it is nearly noon. I make my way back across town to my "sister's" boutique. Take the milk, drink, drink more, it is hot today. How are you? Where have you been? Did you hear about Hamid and Nina? They are getting married next week.
Back to the house. Wash our hands, gather round, the plate of food is here. Rice. Rice and meat. Could that be camel? Eat. Eat more. Why aren't you eating? Don't you like it? Eat. Eat. Eat. Wash our hands again. Time to relax. We pull out the pillows, find a comfy position and it's nap time.
I must have fallen asleep because it is mid afternoon now. Does it ever cool down here? Time for tea. Round one. Round two. Round three. I start to wake up, the grogginess is wearing off. I wander back to my house. What to do? I will read, no I will knit, no I will clean, no I will write a letterÂ…
I go to visit my friend Mariem. Let's have tea. Round one. Round two. Round three. How are you? How is your health? Your family? The work? How is the heat? Are you fine? Yes, I am fine. My family is fine. Work is good. The heat, the heat is okay. What's new? Your sister is getting married? When? I will come to the wedding, I will wear a muhlafa and dance.
The sun is setting as I walk back towards home. Glowing orange and red over the sand dunes and a palm tree reaches up in the middle of it. Beautiful. There is my family, sitting in the sand outside the boutique. Hello. How are you? It is hot today. Yes, it is hot in America sometimes. We sleep inside and everyone has their own room. It is different than here. Do I prefer America or Mauritania? They are not the same. I love America but I love Mauritania as well.
Time for tea. Round one. Round two. Round three. Here comes the couscous. Eat. Eat. Eat some more. Thank you. I am tired, I am going to sleep now. Good night. I walk back to my house. Where is my candle? There, now I can see. Pajamas. Mattress. Sheet. Pillow. I blow out my candle and settle into my matela. Looking up all I see are stars and the white smear of the Milky Way. A shooting star! Cassiopeia. Orion. Stars. Stars. Stars.
As I fall asleep under my blanket of stars I am happy to be here, happy to be in a place where it is more important to greet your neighbor than to be on time. So, good night Mauritania, good night Milky Way, good night shooting stars — I'll see you again tomorrow.